- This topic has 11 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated May 7, 2020 at 11:50 pm by
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Due to a technical problem with my last post have started a new topic.
Had to clean the wooden decks of the Princess ready to seal them better than they were. So the deck got a couple of coats of polyurethane floor sealer, that should seal up the wood to a degree. While I tried to do the edges water will still get under a bit. Also you can see the SS ??? handrails have a bit of corrosion on them even though it got a good wash down with tap water and dried. Rubbed some Corrosion X on them so will see how that goes.
Came across the replacement cost of one of these the other day. This will be my only one, it has tripled in price. Thank goodness for HK sales many years ago. So will need to strip all the drive system as well when I get some time. Hopefully greasing all the threads on the initial strip down will pay dividends.
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Like a lot of our “toys” they have doubled & in some cases tripled in price over the past couple of years.
Before “varnishing” the repaired deck on the “Mt Gay 30” RC Yacht, I spoke to a couple of old yachties with regard to what they used on wooden components & eventually settled on Spar Varnish “GoldSpar Original”. Whilst it is not cheap a little bit goes a long way with models and it supposedly has the best UV rating of any wood boat finishes.
On real boats it can’t be used on decks or any areas subject to wear & tear as it’s not hard enough and in real boats it is primarily used for masts, spars etc, that see very little wear & tear but are continuously exposed to the elements.
The one I used dries virtually clear and supposedly does not yellow over time so allowing the natural wood colour to shine through. Only real drawback is its very slow drying , it surface dries overnight but takes weeks to completely dry out and lose all its tackiness under pressure. Luckily the Mt Gay 30 “Badger” has been just sitting around waiting for the hull to be sprayed so the deck & cabin has now had plenty of time to dry properly.
Just need to get motivated to paint the hull & I could get her back on the water.
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TUGBOAT DEAR BOY don’t be shy …show us the princess … predator isn’t shy to show his Mountagay boat , maybe if the gay boat sees the Princess it could become a Prince I’m waiting for the predators missus to give me a kiss so I can change from a frog to a prince ……… YEA I KNOW IM DESTINED TO REMAIN A FROG
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Pred the choice of sealer was purely on what was open on the bench at the time. It is one of a number of tins I picked up when Masters closed, to be put in the you never know might need it pile. The cost was nothing compared to what I could walk into Bunnings and get at the time. If it went off no real loss. I used it 6 months ago for a job and it was still sitting on the bench (not really a surprise there) so opened it up and it was good to go. As you know not many of my craft will suffer from UV damage, They have to see the light for that to happen, it has sealed the wood and we will see what happens in the future.
Unfortunately all my reports will be mainly be a look back in history as I have only bought two craft in the last few years that I can remember, the rest go back to up to 11 years ago, oh well it will keep me amused. While the cost of replacement has gone up to different degrees (most of mine aren’t in production anymore) they are only worth what someone is prepared to pay, from what I have seen not much but I don’t intend to sell anything.
Look forward to more Mt Gay build updates.
Kermit, I did post a video of the Princess getting drowned, will take some more photos when I strip it down and rebuild. One of the things I have to check out is the cooling water flow which did not seem to be working very well but when I used a syringe to inject water into the outlet the water was flowing sort of. Might try drilling out the rudder pickup.
Just one kiss would do that????
While rearranging the mess on the bench came across a box of ESC’s, now just have to remember what I bought them for or was it one of those might need sometimes buy which my finger is prone to do.
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Tug, this suggestion was from Uncle G and was used in my Rescue 17 & under way in the Archer Offshore Fishing boat.
Change from brushed to brushless motor & Aircooled ESC, use an oversize motor & ESC which can then be run on low power and you no longer need to provide water cooling at all. Much more convenient, especially when sailing in a saltwater environment
Also a quick update, the colour problem (white on white) has been fixed yet again on the pic upload module. If it’s still not working for you then just load a Forum page and press Ctrl R to refresh. Should update it for you.
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Thanks Pred (Uncle G), it is already a brushless system and I installed a 120A ESC. It has only had one run which you have seen and the seawater inside would have kept everything cool. I was only running on 2S and when I got it out of water all I was more worried about was getting the water out of the hull not checking temperatures. For realistic running 2S is ample and even with that 1/2 to 3/4 throttle would be all that is required and I dont think over heating on that would be a problem. But I have seen this running up to 6S so water cooling will be needed if I ever try going up the cell range. For the moment I just need to do some maintenance and sort the electronics so it can be relaunched without having to rush things like its initial run. The lake where I have sailed is small and has ducks and fish so not really suitable for anything but low speed electric.
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Kermit, I am not sure a kiss from a beautiful Princess would work in your case, you may have to delve deep into the witchcraft black book of spells for a more powerful spell breaker. Anyway not sure you would want to change from a frog, you seem to enjoy your role in life as you are. It must have been a dilemma that when, obeying social distancing, you were sailing by yourself on your dam, how did you comes to grips with the fact you were actually winning the race but at the same time coming last where you fee most comfortable.
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